Tuesday 2nd June 2010
Today was another slow start. We had a late breakfast in an ajoining cafe – a lovely omlette.
Then we made our to the nearby Old Town. We crossed a busy road and then we were basicaly in the Old Town. Well not quite as we had to go through the old wall. I am not too sure at this stage just how we passed the wall because after we had walked down a narrow lane we were suddenly on the inside of a twin towered gate. This was quite a picturesque area with a number of flower stalls on the outside. Ont the facing side of the road were several cafes and a local hamburger outlet. We wandered along the top of the wall where there is a small park with shady trees and several modern (2007) granite statues.
When we came down to street level, it was time for a decision as to which road we would follow along. We chose to go along the inside of the wall were there was a street with numerous stalls. These all contained woolen and hand knitted items including many hats
We discovered a small arched gateway which led into an old building originally from the 1200's, which had been an Dominican Monastery, We went into the cellar area where for a donation we could wander around the various low ceiling rooms and go through even lower doors. Today the area is a water colour artist's studio and gallery. An interesting few minutes, although we choose not to go up to the monastery museum run separately on the first floor.
Outside in a small courtyard, the sun's rays came through the branches of a tree and were emphasised by the smoke from a fire burning in the basement. The artist really needed the fire to keep the place warm and dry. It would have been a difficult job in winter. While today's fire was a small one, the size of the harth indicated that once upon a time the monks must have had very large and wide fires burning there.
I took several photos in this area as it did appeal to me as being ancient and photogenic. I could see the prints in black and white although I suppose the light could have been better at another time of the day.
We wandered through another low archway and into a narrow alley with a mixture of small shops but mostly expensive artists' galleries and cafes. The alley frontages of the buildings had been done up nicely, often with colourful flower boxes in place. There was a steady flow of guided walking groups with their information being given in a variety of languages, but rarely in English. It was quite a novelty to hear English being spoken even if it was by Americans – as was usually the case.
We found a cafe we could afford. Cafe Paree – yes that was the spelling they used I think, was in aa attractive courtyard down a little alley of a road. I was attracted by a sign saying hot chocolate. The cafe specialised in chocolate items. It had some very intensive looking chocolate cakes. A bit too rich looking for me to attempt. We got an outside table just before a group of older Americans came and took the rest.
The hot chocolate came with a choice of additives. We chose to have it with orange and ginger, which proved to be a good choice. The base was a rich dark chocolate solution and served in a tall glass. It was almost too rich for me- just on the borderline between ok and sickly. I think I would prefer my hot chocolate to be a bit more liquid, a bit thinner in fact.
We made our way along a mixture of cafe lined roads with their out door seating under large umbrellas, until we came to the main town square. What a sight!. The centre of the square was full of stalls but the general theme was medieval. Most of the stall holders an other folk wandering around where dressed up in middle age style clothing. Lots of colourful traditional costumes and other clothing which was just colourful.
Many of the stalls featured woolen items, most likely locally made. There were wooden toys and household items, A couple small wheeled carts were selling hot coated nuts. One had a juster and a drum to 'drum up' business.
Around the square were bicycle or pedo-cabs and small groups on segways (well I think that is their name), and lots of guided groups coming and going. We speant quite a long time in the square watching and looking and sometimes talking to locals. Speakers were playing medieval music which added to the overall effect. Later, we did watch a small live group playing futes and drums to entertain dinners at their tables. We stopped and I had a small middle ages beer and Robyn had a juice called 'foxberry'. We both had a elk meat pie which was like a small sausage roll in shape and size but with a minced meat filling, not a sausage. We could have had elk soup as well.
In the eraly evening we left the square and walked up a few more streets to look at an old church which is now a museum – but it was closed. Along another street with a park on the hillside. Lots of people were lying around enjoying the sun. Parts of the park were serving area with busy waitresses rushing back and forth across the road with orders. A bit further on and an area had seating in the form of sun lounging seats. Here folk were stretched out enjoying the warm evening sunshine.
Now it was time to head back along the streets, passing fur shops and more cafes until we left the old town and headed for the hostel. An interesting day spent in a very pretty town. Outside the walls of course the modern city of commuters and rush hours, large modern shopping centres and busy trams existed. But for a few hours we had stepped back in history to a less rushed time. It had been fun.
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