PENANG #3

Georgetown is on and the capital of the island of Penang. But it is only a short distance from the closest part of the mainland. It can be seen clearly across the strait -except when it rains, as it does.

The day I decided to cross by ferry boat, the weather was not that encouraging. Low clouds hung all around, but being ever hopeful I decided that if it did cear a bit, then I would get some great views of Georgetown from the sea.

The busy ferry terminal is generally known as the Jetty. Most buses route through its bus terminal at some stage and it is where the city's free shuttle service starts and also finishes.

The ferries themselves are some what 'historical' and as such are worth a ride on. The bottom deck is for vehicles and the top deck for walkon passengers. Rows of old seats are still functional.

The service runs like clockwork and as one ferry arrives the other departs. Across on the mainland the same routine is followed so that a 15 minute or so frequency is maintained. The trip itself only takes quarter of an hour. On the way there are good views of the mainland port and in the other direction – to the south- a view of the really impressive 8.5km bridge which provides a island to mainland road link.

The trip across is free although you have to pay to come back. I think the cost was MR 1.60 which makes it less than 80 cents NZ.

Ther mainland port is Butterworth of which the guide books usually say something like “pass though quickly”. It does have a wharfside bus terminal with many long distance buses competing for customers. The fares are pretty much standardise so they compete on appearance of the bus and most have hanging looped curtains complete with tassels.

As I left the shelter of the Butterworth ferry teminal, I was greeted by a deluge. The heavens openend and there was enough rain for Noah's Ark to have floated. In other words it was heavy serious rain.

I wandered past the parked coaches and the keen sales reps - “ bus to KL sir?” This despite the fact I had no bags.

Now in my morning confidence I had omitted to pack a rain coat – well actually I only have wo temergency plastic ponchos from the $2 shop. But even these were not included in my day pack this morning. The answer had to be an umbrella.

Walking quickly across the road attempting to avoid as many puddles as I could and not being completely successful – new ones seemed to form just as I put my foot down. I headed across to the large market building only to find that is was half empty and that it was a food market. OK I would try the little shops along the road. Crossing the next road I got even wetter and as I wandered along between the shops water running off their awnings all seemd to be draining down on the spaces I had to walk along. No shop sold umbrellas. What a lost opportunity I thought.

I went into a local coffee shop for a cup of hot or warm black coffee and it came complete with condensed milk. This coffee maker could not understand anyone not having milk in.their coffee. Being wet, soaked through actually, any cup of coffee was acceptable in the end. So I sat and watched the rain and I watched all the mostly empty long distance buses roll out for their 10:30am departure.

Finally the rain seemed to lesson and I quickly made my way back to the bus terminal. No one offered my a seat this time – I guess I looked to wet to be on their next bus. That suited me and actually in the end I decided the rain had not eased, I was just 'hoping'.

The result of the rain was tat the view of Georgetown was almost non existent thanks to the rain and low cloud or mist. Secondly all the seats near the open sides of the deck were wet and the passengers were all huddled in the drier central area.

As I past the toilet on the wharf I noted and attendant seated at the door. That would indicate payment required. Mostly this seems to be 30 seni. But I became aware of the women queing up at the free on board “Ladies' Loo” I decided that these women had made the trip often enough to learn the system.

In the light of my learning experience on this little outing I have to conclude that the guide books are right. Give it a miss. But then again I had an experience there that I will not easily forget and there was the condense milk as well. By the way the coffee cost MR1 whereas on the island without milk it is only 90 seni.

I also decided that catching a bus for KL in a few days I would do my best to catch one that did not require the the ferry trip to Butterworth