Saturday, June 5, 2010

TALLINN AND OPERA IN THE SQUARE

Saturday 5th June 2010

Once again a lovely blue sky and bright sunshine greeted us as we glanced out
the window around 6:30am. We have been very fortunate with the weather here. I
was talking to a German tourist during the day and he mentioned that before we
arrived the weather had been bad. So at last the weather man or woman has been
nice to us.


The first target for the day was to get Robyn on her way to the airport. A
friendly hostel staff member had said that as he stopped work at 7:30am and
went past the airport, he would be happy to transport Robyn and save a taxi
fare. This he did although he had to wait for the replacement staff member to
arrive and she was a bit late. But in the end of Robyn went in.


I went back up to pack and then to the adjoining hotel for a buffet breakfast.
Menue was the same as a couple of days ago. I bet it never changes, just the
guests change. I had my one rolled salted herring just to say that I can eat
them, but only just.


I left my bags in the hostel store and headed to the centre of the old town.


What I found on the way was or should it be 'were' crowds. The main tourist
streets were just jammed with I expect tourists. They were everywhere in groups
and pairs and single. Cameras in action and walking turning and looking. Men
waiting for wives to come out of shops. Scattered amongst all of this were some
locals in traditional costumes. That looked interesting. However, there was not
as much of this as I had expected.


I think I must look a little like a regular as no one gave me a flier, asked me
in for coffee or offered me free nuts. That alone was an achievement as the
sellers seemed to be on every corner today.


When I got to the town square I was interested to see a large sound stage
errected. I do not think I have been to a city on this trip yet were I did not
see a stage erected. It seems to be an European feature. I guess they want to
make the most of the long summers day. Any how, this one had some action
beginning on it. There was a small orchestra of around 40 players set up in
front of the stage. I sat in the front row of the forms set out and settled
down to watch the proceedings.


What I saw was a rehearsal of a local (well I think it would be local) opera. It
seemed to be a comedy and cover true love wins out despite the action of evil.
Except for an odd wig no one was dressed up. There were six main actors/singers
and a cast of dancers equally divided between male and female. The music was
enjoyable and the leads were over acting as one does to ensure that the
furtherest members of the audience could see. It did seem a bit melodramatic
though. I filmed quite a bit of it. Two of the leads came and went on foot
scooters while the devil rode a bike.


When it finished and everyone hurried off, I wandered around the surrounding
streets, discovering a couple of new churches, one of which was Russian
Orthodox and far less a tourist site as the large one by the castle was. In a
court yard beside it there was a small market in progress with most sellers in
costume. To add to the medieval theme a spinner had a pen with a sheep and lamb
for people to look at. From their reaction, this was something of a novelty. The
other church was all painted white, which seems to be the church colour here. It
was set back from the road with a courtyard in front behind the high walls. It
was closed. I think it must have been called Peter and Paul Church working out
my impression of Estonian.


Across the street was the Tallinn City Museum in a building looking so close to
collapse that I wondered if it would be safe to go in. But then, the building
might be the exhibit.


I had had quick look at a much larger market opposite the tourist information
centre. But although it was local products, they were not much different to the
souvineer shops. Very busy with lookers however, even if they were not actually
purchasing. The most interesting sales place I visited was on the way to the
old town. I went into a Made In Russia shop in an old building near the hostel.
It had lots of recycled clothing especially Russian military, but it did have
some cameras and I would not have minded get them, but I didn't even find out
the price as they were too heavy to carry around with me. I was quite quick
going around the sales tables – hardly counters. I suspect I would have
enjoyed spending longer there.


I called into the little bar in the basement of the old town hall, which we had
been to a couple of days ago. I had 'real beer' which I seem to gather is
actually mead. The elk pies were sold out so I got the last of the pork ones.
Not a lot of meat and lots of air but still tasty and filling for lunch. I went
into one of the inner basement rooms which was just lit by candles and with the
low ceiling and arched low door ways made me think that I had stepped back in
time to the Middle Ages. The music playing added to the feeling. This is where
I chatted to a couple of German guys for a few minutes. They were amazed with
the crowds on the streets. They said that in Helsinki they had hardly seen a
person out on the streets. I will find out wont I.


I went back to the centre of the square and got a seat on the front at the side.
Not a good position as when everything started happening people just invaded the
space in front and crowded the seat folk out of a view. So it is not just my
photographs they get in the way for. In the end I left my seat and moved around
the edge of the crowded and back stage getting photos and video. For this
performance the orchestra was all in formal suits and dresses and all the cast
were in costumes. The leads had some very interesting and colourful way out
head gear on. The leads still scottered in or rode their bicycle. In addition
this time there was a fire eater and occasional fireworks going off in front of
the stage. It was all great fun even though I could not understand it.


While I was waiting for it to start, I head the beat of drums and stood up
looking around. I spied a parade coming around the corner into the square. The
band burst into a loud marching tune and played with great gusto. Flag bearers
led the band. It was followed by a group of officials and others in medieval
costumes. Several of these people came up onto the stage to make speeches. They
were preceded by a very loud roll on the tympani. I expect the drummer enjoyed
doing that. Then from windows on the second floor of the old town hall, several
trumpeters sounds out a loud fanfare. Great. Then we had several speeches from
the mayor and others including the town herald. I think that they loved being
dressed up in costumes too.


So with that over, the opera begun and the crowds even more blocked out our
view.


But pretty soon it was time to return to the hostel and collect my bags and head
to Terminal A. I was early and didn't have to queue for a ticket, which was
never checked at boarding before departure.


Being one of the first on board, I was able to get a seat next to the window in
a small lounge. Although it is deck seven, I seem to be 10 stories high. A
quick check showed that the wi fi was working – great. So I sent several
emails 'from sea'.


I stayed at the seat and table through the whole voyage except to go up and get
a filled roll, glass of wine and coffee. A way to spend the remaining Estonia
notes.


Although the sea appeared choppy and one yacht we passed was just sailing with
its jib up, the ship was very smooth. The only complaint I would have would be
about the almost constant PA announcements most of which were not in English.


It seemed no time at all and we were sailing past low rocky islands, which
remined me a lot of Sweden and Norwegian islands I have passed on previous
trips. I think the lowness and sort of smooth or even surfaces is a result of
past ice ages when great sheets of ice covered the area.


And then we were coming into Helsinki. It took no longer to cross the Gulf of
Finland as it does to cross Cook Strait back in New Zealand. During the voyage,
I did not rent out the Conference Rooms (some one else already had anyway), I
did not visit the shopping area which mostly seemed to be duty free alcohol, go
to the Dance Centre, watch a movie, or go to any of the several themed eating
establishments. I did not even go on deck. If I had I would have found the cool
breeze sent me back down quickly.


So time to disembark. I went to the luggage room to collect my bag and it was
not there. I did think that the room looked different but it took me a while to
remember that I had actually walked along the deck when I embarked to find a
lounge. I had to go back to that gangway entrance foyer to find the correct
baggage room. And there was my bag, just waiting for me. A certain amount of
relief spread over me, but all was well.

I follwed the crowd out of the building. No customs, no passport check no
nothing.


I seemed that every second passenger was towing along behind them a little
luggage trolley loaded with duty free alcohol from Estonia. The majority seemed
to have their limit as there was a similarity in the packages being brought in.
Many had no other luggage with them.


I remembered Anders in Sweden telling me about Swedes going on ferry trips to
bring back duty free alcohol. He said that if you bought up to the limit the
seller gave away the trolley. Pretty smart business dealing I thought. Now I
have seen it with my own eyes.


The HI Hostel was about one block from the Viking Ferry terminal, but one or
more tram rides from the other companies birthing spots. I had picked Viking
because they were so close to the hostel.

The hostel is big with six floors and although not as tall as the one we stayed
at in Copenhagen a few years ago, seems to be much longer in street frontage.
This is the first hostel on this trip where you have to pay for the Internet wi
fi connection. Five euros a day but just e15 for four days. It works though.
Even the electronic pass cards for the room door worked first time which I do
not find the case most times I get landed with these.


So here I am on the second floor (which we would call first floor) in a single
room with shared bath room down the corridor. The kitchen is down that way as
well.


So now I am in Finland.

Country #5

Hostel #11 for this trip. Only 15 more hostels and one friends home to go.

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