Today was a fine day. Somewhat amazing but I did not experience even a drop of
rain. In fact the temperature was set to reach 17C, but at Malbork it must have
cot higher as I peeled off my merino layers and just want around with my fleece
jacket open. In fact it I didn't carry my little video in one of the pockets,
the jacket would have come off as well.
So it was nice to head off to see the castle at Malbork. I caught the first
train to leave the station after I got there. It was an Inter-City and I
decided second class would be ok. In fact the seats were just as well
upholstered as first class on my trip to Gdansk. Then I worked it out. In
second class there are four seats per side of the compartment, but in first
class there are only three seats on the side each with an armrest. The carriage
I got into was non smoking but the couple already in the compartment obviously
had been smoking. However they refrained from a cigarette for my journey. The
husband did play quite loud music on his cell phone though. That was OK as I
sat by the door and had it a little open.
The train didn't stop much so it was a quick trip. Along the way we did cross a
large river and the bridge continued across a wide area of pasture which must
be a flood plain. Next to us was a road bridge with castle like towers at
different points and a construction where the side was like a metal trellis
boxing in the roadway. Quite unusual I thought.
Suddenly as we approached another river, I spied the castle and it did look like
I was going to enjoy seeing around it.It was large and looked very smart in its
red brick construction. Then we had passed it and were drawing into the
station. The walk back took me through the main street of Malbork, which turned
out to be pretty, modern looking small town, complete with a large MacDonalds.
That feature is most likely a result of the half million visitors which the
castle gets every year. Potentially a lot of hamburger sales in that many
visitors.
The walk from the station was just a easy 20 minute stroll and the route just
fell into place, it was pretty obvious which way the castle was as you could
usually see one tower.
So consulting my leaflets and guidebooks here is a quick background to the
castle.
Construction started around 1274 or 1276 depending on which source you read. It
was built by the Teutonic Knights, who had been crusading in the Holyland
during the Third Crusade around 1190. At first they just did medical work and
ran a hospital but in time they became a monastic order and then brother
knights fighting the holy war against pagans.Back from the Holyland they
established in Poland and began a war against pagans, espanding their control
of quite a vast area.
With Malbork their headquarters they became a very rich and powerfull kingdom
under the order's Grand Masters. They built factories for bricks works, wood
mills, glass works black smithing workshops and other industries. This built up
the kingdom's economy and during the 14th century I read that they were the only
European country not in debt. They helped civilize their territory.
But in the end other kings got jealous and feared the power of the Order and
their power ended in one of the greatest battles (15th century) of the medieval
times. The result was the Grand Master becoming a subject of the Polish king. It
included the 13 Year War – which I can not find the date for.
So what I saw today was the castle as it was when finally finished around 1500.
Of course this is not the actual building as more that 50% was destroyed during
the German and Russian Armies battles in WW2. That it has been mostly rebuilt
and restored is an amazing achievement. I did go into the castle church which
is till very scared and un restored, although work is going on slowly. It did
give an idea of what the rest of the buildings may have been like at the end of
the war – those still standing of course. I did also see a small chapel below
the main church which needed repair as well. It also interested me that the
main restoration of the castle took place under Communist rule. I wonder why
they would put so much effort into that when so many other things needed to be
met. This was being restored at the same time as they were working on rebuiding
towns and cities.
During WW2 the castle was Stalag 20, where 20,000 prisoners were held. Even with
the size of the castle and it covers 21 hectares, it would have been crowded.
Mostly today I just saw lots of large halls with curved arches holding up the
high ceilings. Some fresco and murals on the walls. Also painted decorative
designs which I thought of as wallpaper substitute. But not really much of any
of the art work. I did go into a couple floors of weapons and armour. Most I
have seen before elsewhere but some still looks really scary stuff to meet on
the battle field. Some early canon and flintlock pistols as well. I also went
into the kitchen area which was set up with reproductions of the utensils and
cooking facilities of the time. Also a long table set out with typical food of
the time. Later outside the main castle but still inside the walls, I located
the flour mill with samples of pounding and grinding machinery.
There was the toilet tower where several long drops were reconstructed. There
were also smaller toilets around the castle but they all drained out into the
moat. I guess that means the moat would have been quite smelly at times.
The castle was constructed in three sections within the protecting outer walls.
The first area was the Outer Bailey. It was here incidentally that St
Lawrence's Chapel was located. A lot of the needed trades would be done in this
area. Then a second line of defense with the Medium Castle where guests would
stay and the great dinning hall was located. Finally the High Castle which had
its own moat, a draw bridge and portcullis. There were also several massive oak
doors in this gateway as well. Strong defense. This castle had a church,
dormitories, the treasury, toilet tower and was were the highest status guests
were housed.
As you can see I have learn t a lot about castles.
Because there are lots of visitors which today included adult tour groups and
lots of various aged school groups being guided around, it was often quite
crowded in some spaces. Also the tents of souvenirs in the Outer Bailey area
were all selling swords, bows of various sorts, arrows to suit and shields. The
also had knights armor and costumes, helmets and head rings and ribbons for
girls. Now this was different to the usual run of items you find in souvenir
stalls.
It cost 25 zty admission and another 35 to take photos and video. So it cost me
50zty to get in and I had to wear a photo sticker so the guards would know I
could take pictures. The price actually included a guide (in a group) but only
in Polish or German as the tourist season wasn't busy enough until July to
provide English language groups – unless you wanted to pay 200 zty for a
personal guide.
I went back on a slower train which stopped more often and did not have nice
comfortable seats. Then again, which it cost me 15.50 zty to go, coming back
was only 11zty.
So back to the hostel by 8:30pm. It had been a full day.
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