Today's tally equals:
two art galleries
one church on a hill
one funicular
But first, it was time to do a test run – actually a test walk, but you know
the term. I wanted to walk to the bus station along the route I had worked out
would be the shortest. The purpose was to time it and to check that the paving
stones were not too uneven. Well it turned out to be a workable route and would
take between 15 and 20 minutes. While I was at the station I purchased my ticket
for tomorrow's trip. That took a while, perhaps 6 minutes so it was good to have
the ticket. Cost was 52 Lt and that was with a 10% senior discount. I didn't
even ask but I guess the passport birth date was enough to get me the discount.
The first art gallery I went to was the one in the square at the end of the
guest house road. It was the one with the full frontal nude called "Man"
and modeled on Nike who was the Greek god of something – perhaps running? It
was very controversial when installed but when I have been watching people just
walk past without a glance at it. It stands about twice life size with arms
outstretched. Hard to miss.
The art gallery, the Mykolas Zilinskas Art Gallery, is named after a rich
businessman who donated much or all of his art collection to the city. The
gallery holds Lithuanian's only Paul Rubens painting and a couple of others
that may be his or by his pupils. There was quite an extensive display of
paintings from 16th and 17th centuries but except for Rubens, I can not say
honestly that I had heard of more than a couple of the painters. The usual
collection of subjects: portraits of rich men and sometimes of their wives as
well, mythical legends, views of Biblical significance including themes around
Christ on the Cross and some landscapes which were usually dark and moody.
There was a gallery hall of furniture and household objects from 17th century
mostly. Another very large collection of Japanese water colours showing aspects
of Japanese culture. There was also a display of 19th and 20th century
Lithuanian painting where I found a number I enjoyed.
It was an interesting couple of hours really, especially as it was cold outside.
Next I went a couple blocks to ride up a small hill on a funicular. Just a
couple 16 seat cars each on the end of a single steel cable. As one came down
it pulled the other one up. There was a control box at the top with a brakeman
operating the system. In his room, he maintains a small photography exhibition.
This was pictures from Berlin and it was pleasing to recognise some of the
locations.
Then it was just few short steps to Christ's Redemption Basilica, a huge modern
church on the hill top . Well modern in comparison to the centuries old church
buildings down hill. This Basilica is a very commanding white building with a
high tower at one end and a lesser tower at the other. I thought that it could
well pass for a Mormon temple.
Inside the auditorium is white, fairly plain without much ornamentation. It is
light and airy and very high.
I paid the charge to go up the tower in the elevator – it was cheaper to climb
up the stairs, but that seemed a lot to ask of me. When I exited the elevator I
was very surprised to walk out onto a large flat roof. I had expected just a
viewing platform. But no here was an area almost large enough for a rugby game
to be played. Well you could play but it was a little under sized. The main
tower continued on upwards and what I had assumed to be a small tower at the
other end was in fact a small chapel. I suppose that at times they hold roof
top mass.
Like all big churches this one had taken a while to build. Seventy years in
fact. The Nazis used it as a paper warehouse and then after the war, the
Soviets used it as a radio factory. In the end the Catholics got it back and it
was consecrated in 2004.
There were great views out over the city as you could imagine.
Coming down from the hill top, I headed along the road to the second art gallery
for the day. The National Ciurlionis Art Museum is dedicated to the work of one
of Lithuania's most famous artists and composers. Mikalojus Konstantinas
Ciurlionis not only painted, often in pastel, but composed piano and symphony
music as well. The local experts view him as the founder of abstract art
although this is not a widely held view elsewhere. I found his art, and there
must have been close to 100 pictures on display, was often quite appealing and
thought provoking. Over all I enjoyed it and would loved to have heard some of
his music as well. There were CD's on sale but I thought they were a bit
expensive and I was also trying to make my remaining cash spin out.
Else where in the museum were displays of local folk art and paintings from
around the early 20th century. As well there was a photo display be a German
photographer who had gone around in the 1950's taking pictures of interesting
road side crucifixes and crosses. They also had several samples of the real
thing there, or metal parts of them, on display.
In another room an artist had taken fresh spring bark from trees and softened it
and then molded it into figure sculptures. On display they looked like they were
just a mysterious part of a growing tree trunk. It was very realistic and
impressive. The theme she had taken was a 19th century revolution and the
punishments that followed.
Then there was time to look at some Soviet area sculptures along the road and
visit a war memorial with an eternal flame burning.
Essentially the rest of the evening was spent packing and getting ready for an
early departure the next day.
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