I headed off from the hostel around mid day and was passing and photographing
Wawel Castle. As I had been there on the last visit I did not intend to go up
to it. However, rounding the corner I was surprised to see a long procession
heading up the castle drive.
They were singing and carrying banners and flags as well as small statues of
Jesus. Instantly I knew what this had to be.
I had noted in the "What's On" guide an note that there would be a
Procession of St Stanislaus to the Church "On the Rock". While I have seen
pictures of such processions and even film, I have never seen such a Roman
Catholic event.
So my plans to go to Kazimierz, were put on hold and I set off to follow
alongside the procession and get what film and stills I could. So I did and I
did. In the end I was up on the castle grounds and near the church on the rock.
The procession consisted of various groups banners or statues of significance to
them. Some banners had colourful streamers attached the ends of which were held
by various members of their groups. Some groups were in uniforms and in others
the women, especially the older women were in colourful Polish traditional
dresses.
After a while this procession sort of ended. Basically having reached the church
they just carried on down the path an off the castle grounds.
But in fact that was not the end. I may have been halfway. Now came a great
number of nuns marching along at a nun pace i.e. some what gentle. I have never
seen so many different habits which I assume represent different orders. Nor
have I ever seen so many nuns. Then came the priests and there were plenty of
them. At some point came an army company with capes and feathered hat plus
modern rifles.
A group of civic dignitaries carrying maces and wearing mayoral chains of
office. A lot of people in academic gowns. Then came what looked like members
of an order of church knights or something, then the church hierarchy in red
robes and the archbishop with his curved shepherds staff. In the midst of this
various groups priests were carrying at shoulder height precious looking
objects in boxes with a sort of crown on top. Some of the churches gold crosses
and chalices were also carried. However, I wondered if the boxes contained
relics?
The more official groups seemed to go into the church for a short moment, which
I latter assumed to be a circling of St Stanislaus's tomb, which stands in the
middle of the church.
Oh at the back of everyone was an army band which had given up playing by this
stage.
One innovation I thought were the sound boys. There were young men walking with
the parade by with a couple of poles attached so that they carried above their
two PA speakers one pointing forward and the other backwards. They were all
relaying the same sound which was a mixture of hymn music and a priest
chanting a refrain. Those in the procession sang along with it. They must have
been using a radio link up. A good idea.
As it was raining most of the statues of Jesus had been given a plastic
covering.
Once the procession had passed the castle church, the crowds began to queue up
to go into the church. I noticed that although some parts such as the crypt and
the bell tower cost money, entrance into the church was free to all. So I found
the door with the least queuing and headed in. Dominating the church is the
tomb of the saint. There are four decorative posts holding up a high domed
covering. I suspect the the inside of the dome is gold. St Stanislaus coffin
sits raise up on the shoulders of four angels. I would assume that the coffin
and the angels were in silver.
A number of great tapestries hung on the walls. Further into the church was the
normal altar, paintings, side rooms and statues. One of the early queens who
became deified lies there as well.
These persons all date back to the 12th and 13th centuries.
Looking out at the Vistula River just below the castle walls, I spotted what
looked like a fun fair down below. I could see some children's attractions and
inflated castles and so on. So I went down to have a look and discovered that
it was actually a trade fair for mothers with babies and toddlers. There were
stalls with all the baby carriages and car seats and clothes and toys and safe
foods etc that any new mother would want. However, there were some food stalls
and I was able to buy a small barbecued dumpling like object which was actually
cheese and served with cranberry sauce. OK but as you can imaging hot cheese can
get a bit chewy. I later got a hot sausage and a serving of potatoes. I think
these had been boiled and then further cooked in a butter, garlic and herb
mixture in one of the huge wok like bowls being used. A filling meal.
Time was moving on and I did want to get into Kazimierz. Once this had been a
separate town with its own town hall but over time it merged into Krakow.
However it does have its individuality. It is the traditional Jewish area and
there are still five or so synagogues group in a area of Kazimierz. I paid to
go into a small 15th century synagogue but there was very little to see and the
graveyard was equally old.
I did discover a nice little cafe in the centre of the Jewish area advertising
hot chocolate. It was the delightful European style – thick and rich. I asked
and they told me they added rosemary and a touch of chili. Very special indeed.
Some of the area around the Jewish streets was run down but these tended to be
exceptions, just one or two buildings at a time with others ajoining in better
condition. I did find some old disused factories which looked derelict. But
having said that the area was full of small cafes and restaurants. Quite a
mixture really.
Getting to the Jewish sector I first followed the St Stanislaus trail or route
which took me down some streets and past various huge churches and a seminary.
I went into a couple. The first was in the middle of mass and I watched for a
short while, while the next was just open for visitors. There is always
something of interest in the churches. The last I looked into was run by the
Augustinians although I do not know what difference that made. It did seem to
have choir seating though.
I came across a small street market just a block long. It only seemed to be
selling sweets, balloons and toys – oh and jewelery stand. Not much business
was being done. Interesting shaped balloons though. I saw one which was a
concrete mixer truck.
In the square around the Town Hall there was an art display set out of
sculptural items, chairs placed, a building with the walls covered with graphic
design which took the form of traditional folk art but incorporated modern
objects such as iPod and Apple computer ( with a heart replacing the apple).
There was also a grand piano. Wooden sculptures of grand pianos with various
painted decorations can be found in several locations around the city.
Well that is about it for the day. Plenty of crowds around checking the sights
just as I was, while the locals went about their business in parallel.
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